Archiv der Kategorie: Uncategorized

anti-aging, Uncategorized

Kollagenpeptide und Dermokosmetik von LARENS

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Liposomaler Kollagen- und biomimetischer Peptidkomplex in Naturkosmetikprodukten von Larens

Hier möchte ich über wunderbaren Kosmetikprodukte schreiben – Dermakosmetik von polnisch-schweizerische Firma Larens WellU. Heutzutage interessieren sich immer mehr Menschen für Naturkosmetik. Allerdings muss man sagen, dass solche Kosmetika meist keine guten Ergebnisse in Pflege liefern. Larens hat einen Weg gefunden, erstaunliche Produkte herzustellen, die bis zu 100% natürliche Substanzen enthalten und großartige Ergebnisse erzielen k;nnen. Sie verbinden Wissenschaft und Naturprodukte – eine Kombination, die mir am besten gefällt. In ihrem Angebot finden Sie Kosmetik ohne Pigmente, allergielösende Konservierungsstoffe, Silikone, Parabene und Duftstoffe. Die Firma bemüht sich, dass alle Zutaten in ihren Produkten von bester Qualität sind. Unter anderem finden sich dort in Liposomen verkapselte Kollagen- und Elastinpeptide, niedermolekulare Hyaluronsäure sowie biomimetische und Signalpeptide mit vielfaltige Wirkung. Das Unternehmen gewinnt jedes Jahr verschiedene Preise für innovative Produkte!

Zuerst möchte ich schreiben über Hyaluronsäure, Kollagen- und Elastinpeptiden die in Liposomen eingekapselt sind. Was sind eigentlich diese Liposomen? Liposomen sind eine von vielen lipidbasierten Nanosystemen, die in der Kosmetik eingesetzt werden, um Wirkstoffe in tiefe Hautschichten zu transportieren. Es ist sehr wichtig zu wissen, dass die Funktion unserer Haut darin besteht, uns vor exogenen Faktoren wie Allergenen, Chemikalien und Mikroorganismen zu schützen. Die Struktur der Haut ist so gestaltet, dass nichts von außen kann leicht in unseren Körper eindringen. Obere Hautschichten enthalten sehr wenig Wasser, was sie für wasserbasierte Kosmetika undurchlässig macht. Die meisten Substanzen in kosmetischen Produkten können in die oberen Hautschichten eindringen (Epidermis), jedoch es ist für sie fast unmöglich, in den mittleren Teil der Haut (Dermis) einzudringen. Und genau da, in Dermis meisten Hautprobleme ihrer Ursprung haben. Liposomen können aufgrund ihrer hautähnlichen Struktur sehr tief eindringen und Wirkstoffe dort abgeben wo sie gebraucht werden. Wenn Sie mehr über Liposomen erfahren möchten, können Sie einen meiner Blog-Einträge zu diesem Thema lesen.

https://scienceandcosmetics.blog/2021/09/04/liposomen-and-transport-of-active-substances-into-deep-layers-of-the-skin/

Liposomstruktur und liposom-verkapselte Wirkstoffe (in der Mitte).

Zurück zu Larens. Das Unternehmen bietet Dermokosmetika fürs Gesicht und Körper an. Sie stellen Kosmetika her, die für alle Hauttypen geeignet sind. Auch Menschen, die an Akne, Allergien und Neurodermitis leiden, können ihre Produkte ohne Probleme verwenden. Das Wichtigste an dem Unternehmen sind Stoffe, die diese Firma in ihren Formulierungen verwendet. Ich habe alle Wirkstoffe überprüft und ich muss sagen, dass ich sehr positiv überrascht bin. Ich könnte da viele wunderbare Substanzen finden, die fast alle Hautprobleme bekämpfen können. Wachstumsfaktoren (FGF, EGF, VEGF, IGF-1), Lactobionsäure und Gluconolacton (entzündungshemmende und Anti-Aging-Eigenschaften), Kollagen– und Elastin-Peptide, Palmitoyl-Oligopeptid (Anti-Aging Wirkung), Hyaluronsäure, Ferulasäure (starkes Antioxidans), kolloidales Silber (antimikrobiell), Hydromanil (feuchtigkeitsspendend), Phytodermina Lifting Complex (feuchtigkeitsspendend), Omega-6-Fettsäurekomplex und Ectoin (entzündungshemmend und feuchtigkeitsspendend) sind für mich die wichtigste Inhaltsstoffe. Daneben finden wir dort viele typische Wirkstoffe, wie Vitamin E (Antioxidans), Squalen, Reisöl, Allantoin (feuchtigkeitsspendend), Panthenol (feuchtigkeitspendent und entzündungshemmend), Urea, Milchsäure (feuchtigkeitspendent), Vitamin C (reguliert Kollagenbiosynthese, Antioxidans), Biotin, Hamamelis (entzündungshemmend), Aminosäuren (feuchtigkeitspendent), Jojobaöl, Gingko Biloba (verstärkt Kapillaren, Anti-Aging), Centella Asiatica (Anti-Aging Eigenschaften), Laminaria saccharina (feuchtigkeitsspendend), Sonnenblumenöl, Avocadoöl, Rutin und vieles, vieles mehr.

Ich habe in letzter Zeit einige Produkte von Larens ausprobiert und ich muss sagen, dass dies die besten Kosmetika sind, die ich bisher verwendet habe! I love it! Ich konnte bereits nach wenigen Tagen der Anwendung gute Ergebnisse sehen. Produkte haben einen sehr neutralen Geruch, sind nicht fettig und hinterlassen eine weiche und feuchte Haut. Über Packungen und die Behälter der Produkte habe ich mich sehr gefreut. Sie sehen sehr luxuriös aus und sind extrem einfach zu dosieren 🙂

Gesicht vor und nach der Massage mit Larens-Produkten (Repair+ Milk, Biorepair Toner, Lipocoll, Biorenew Tissue Face Mask, GLA Serum). Die Haut erscheint heller und Sie können weniger Falten sehen 🙂

Hier möchte ich einige Larens Produkte ganz kurz beschreiben:

REPARATUR+ MILCH
Bestimmt wissen Sie, wie wichtig die tägliche Gesichtsreinigung ist. Larens hat ein großartiges Produkt entwickelt, um Ihr Make-up zu entfernen und Ihr Gesicht zu waschen. Es entfernt ganzen Schmutz sowie starkes Make-up und das alles auf sehr sanfte und effiziente Weise. Einer der Hauptbestandteile dieses Produktes ist Reisöl, das neben sehr guten Reinigungseigenschaften, Ihre Haut mit ungesättigten Fettsäuren und Vitaminen nährt. Darüber hinaus enthält es liposomalen Kollagenkomplex, Hyaluronsäure, Lactobionsäure, Vitamin E und Kokoswasser. Es spendet Feuchtigkeit und pflegt Ihre Haut während der Reinigung. Lactobionsäure hat sehr starke Anti-Aging-, entzündungshemmende und feuchtigkeitsspendende Eigenschaften. Es ist perfekter Wirkstoff für trockene und zu Couperose neigende Haut. Es wirkt ähnlich wie alle AHA-Säuren und gleichzeitig ist sehr sanft zu Ihrer Haut. Einige von Ihnen könnten unzufrieden sein, weil die Reinigungsmilch Paraffin enthält. Obwohl ich kein Fan dieser Zutat bin, muss ich sagen, dass der Rest der Inhaltsstoffe in INCI sehr gut ist! Seien wir ehrlich – Paraffin dringt nicht in die Haut ein und ist für mich eigentlich neutraler Inhaltsstoff. Ich kann dieses Produkt für jeden Hauttyp zur täglichen Anwendung empfehlen!

BIOREPAIR+ TONER
Dank Lactobionsäure, es hellt und glättet die Haut. Es ist angereichert mit Panthenol und Allantoin, die sehr gute feuchtigkeitsspendende und entzündungshemmende Eigenschaften haben. Wir finden dort Centella asiatica-Extrakt der sehr starke Anti-Aging-Eigenschaften hat. Dieser Extrakt enthält asiatische Säure (asiatic acid), die eine perfekte Waffe gegen trockene Haut und Falten ist. Meine anderen Lieblingsbestandteile des Toners sind biomimetische Peptide (Kollagen, Elastinpeptide und Palmitoyloligopeptide). Aufgrund ihrer geringen Größe können sie in tiefe Hautschichten eindringen, wo sie in der Lage sind, Fibroblasten zur Kollagen- und Elastinproduktion anzuregen. Biorepair+ Toner hat starke entzündungshemmende Eigenschaften und ist für sehr empfindliche Hauttypen geeignet.

Biopeptid-Toner von Larens.

BIOPEPTIDE SERUM SPRAY
Dies ist ein sehr innovatives Serum in Form eines Sprays. Sie können es nach dem Sonnenbad verwenden, Sie können es tagsüber mehrmals aufs Gesicht verwenden, Sie können es als Serum verwenden und Sie können es sogar für Ihr Haar verwenden! Es riecht sehr neutral und hinterlässt eine glatte und glänzende Haut! Ich liebe es 🙂 Es enthält Biopeptidkomplex mit Kollagen- und Elastinpeptiden, Hydromanil, Biotin, Natriumhyaluronat, Harnstoff, Vitamin E und kolloidalem Silber. Es ist für jeden Hauttyp perfekt geeignet (besonders gut ist für Rosacea, Couperose und Akne).

LIPOCOLL SERUM
Ich bin auch in dieses Produkt verliebt! Es enthält 20% liposomaler Komplex aus Proteinen, Peptiden und Aminosäuren (Kollagen, Elastin, Palmitoyl-Oligopeptid, Histone und Lumicane). Histone sind Proteine, die an der DNS-Stabilisierung beteiligt sind. Lumicane sind wichtig für Kollagenbiosynthese und sind Strukturproteine ​​der extrazellulären Matrix. Dieses Serum hat starke Anti-Aging-Eigenschaften. Durch die Kombination von Signalpeptiden in Liposomen kann es auch viele andere Probleme der Haut bekämpfen. Sie können es auch verwenden, wenn Sie unter Akne und Hyperpigmentierung leiden.

Lipocoll 20% Kollagenserum und Biopeptide Serum Spray.

GLA-SERUM
GLA-Serum ist eigentlich gar keine Serum. Es ist eine Creme, die ihren Namen aufgrund ihrer hohen Wirkstoffkonzentration erhielt. Es ist ein perfektes Wahl für alle Menschen mit sehr trockene und empfindliche Haut. Dank des Gamma-Linolensäure-Komplexes (Omega-6) baut es die Hydrolipidschicht wieder auf und pflegt die Haut. Verlust von Omega-6 Säuren kann zu Elastizitätsverlust, Austrocknung der Haut, Akne und Überempfindlichkeit führen. Die Anwendung von Produkten, die Omega-Säuren enthalten, kann die Schutzbarriere der Haut wiederherstellen und die Widerstandsfähigkeit gegen schädliche äußere Faktoren verbessern. Wir finden dort auch liposomale Kollagen und Hyaluronsäurekomplexe. Panthenol, Gingko biloba-Extrakte und Vitamin E können im Kampf gegen Couperose helfen und sind perfekt für trockene und empfindliche Haut geeignet. Vitamin E ist ein starkes Antioxidans, das die Zellmembranen der Haut schützt, indem es die Fettsäuren- und Lipidoxidation verhindert. Gingko biloba ist dafür bekannt, die Blutgefäße zu stärken und hat starke Anti-Aging-Eigenschaften. Diese Creme ist reich in pflegenden Ölen- Avocadokernöl, Weizenkernöl und Pfirsichkernöl die reich in ungesättigen Fettsäuren sind.

LIFTING FACE CREAM
Es ist eine sehr gute Creme mit starken Anti-Aging-Eigenschaften! Es enthält liposomales Kollagen und Peptidkomplex, liposomale Hyaluronsäure, Vitamin E, Rutin und Phytodermina Lifting Complex. Phytodermina-Komplex ist eine pflanzliche Verbindung aus zyklischen Oligosacchariden. Es hat starke feuchtigkeitsspendende Eigenschaften und bietet einen sofortigen Lifting-Effekt. Die Haut wird bereits nach der ersten Anwendung geglättet und strahlend! Ich benutze diese Creme sehr gerne zur Gesichtsmassage. Es enthält zwei erstaunliche, natürliche und moderne Konservierungsstoffe, von denen angenommen wird, dass sie hautfreundlich sind, feuchtigkeitsspendende Eigenschaften haben und überhaupt keine Allergien verursachen! Es ist ein luxuriöses Produkt und was noch wichtiger ist, es macht seine Arbeit wirklich gut!

BIORENEW TISSUE FACE MASK
Ziemlich teuer, aber immer noch die beste Maske, die ich je benutzt habe 🙂 Sie sorgt für Regeneration, Feuchtigkeit, Schutz und Stimulation der Haut. Als Hauptinhaltsstoff finden wir dort Bioplazenta-Komplex. Pflanzenplazenta ist eine Quelle für hochkonzentrierte Wachstumsfaktoren. Unter anderem finden wir dort EGF (epithelialer Wachstumsfaktor), FGF (Fibroblasten-Wachstumsfaktor), VEGF (vaskulärer epithelialer Wachstumsfaktor). Diese Proteine ​​stimulieren die Angiogenese (Bildung neuer Kapillaren) und die Produktion von Hautstrukturproteinen (Kollagen und Elastin). Es ist eine perfekte Waffe gegen viele Hautprobleme – von Akne, durch trockene Haut und bis zu sehr reifer Haut mit Falten. Außer Pflanzenbioplazenta finden wir dort viele biomimetische- und Signalpeptide: Oligopeptide 1 und 2, Polypeptide 1, 9 und 11 und Arginin/Lysin-Oligopeptid. Dazu, finden wir da Phytodermina-Saccharid-Komplex mit sehr starken feuchtigkeitsspendenden und Anti-Aging Eigenschaften. Interessante Inhaltsstoffe in diese Maske sind Sojabohnen- und Bacillus-Ferment-Extrakte. Sie regen das Wachstum von Hautbakterien an und haben eine entzündungshemmende und schützende Funktion. Außerdem, finden wir dort Allantoin, Squalen, Hyaluronsäure und Kollagen- und Elastin Peptidkomplex. So viele wunderbare Wirksstoffe in eine Maske! I love it 🙂

Bio Renew Tissue Mask mit Wachstumsfaktoren und Biopeptidkomplex.

DERMO-SERIE
In dieser Serie finden wir einige Kosmetika, die Ectoin enthalten. Ectoin ist ein Inhaltsstoff, der bei der Bekämpfung von Allergien und Entzündungen sehr hilfreich sein kann. Es hat starke feuchtigkeitsspendende und schützende Eigenschaften. Ectoin wurde aus extremophilen Mikroorganismen gewonnen – Bakterien, die in sehr extremen Umgebungen (z.B. Geysiren) leben. Interessanter Produkt mit Ectoin ist Dermowash. Es enthält einen Komplex aus natürlichen Fischkollagenpeptiden, Aloe vera Extrakt und Arganöl. In dieser Serie finden wir auch Serum und Creme. Neben Ectoin enthalten sie Biopeptid-Komplex, Kollagen und Elastin, Allantoin, Vitamin E und C, Hyaluronsäure, Hydromanil, kolloidales Silber, Jojobaöl und Gluconolacton. Dank all dieser Wirksstoffe ist die Dermo Serie perfekt für sehr empfindliche, zu Couperose und Akne neigende Hauttypen geeignet. Es hilft, Allergiesymptome zu lindern und ist ein perfekter Wahl für Dermatitispatienten geeignet.

Uncategorized

Akne vulgaris

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Akne vulgaris ist eine chronische, entzündliche Erkrankung der Haut, die ihren Ursprung in der Talgdrüse hat und durch die Besiedelung der Haarfollikel mit Cutibacterium acnes (früher Propionibacterium acnes) entsteht. Lange Zeit dachten die Menschen, dass Akne nur eine Erkrankung der Kindern in der Pubertät ist. Heutzutage ist bekannt, dass auch Erwachsene an Akne leiden können.

Wir können einige Arten von Akne unterscheiden. Die bekanntesten Begriffe, die diese Krankheit beschreiben, sind Acne vulgaris (typische Akne), Acne tarda (Akne bei Erwachsenen – entwickelt sich nach dem 25. Lebensjahr) und Acne excoriee (eine Erkrankung, bei der Patienten wegen Kratzen Entzündungen haben). Wie kommt es zum Auftreten von Akne? Es ist bekannt, dass es mehrere Faktoren gibt, die zu diesem Zustand führen. Stress und Stresshormone (Adrenalin und Cortisol), ein fehlreguliertes endokrines System und Hormone wie Östrogene, Progesteron und Dihydroxytestosteron können zu einem Versagen des Kohlenhydratstoffwechsels und der Keratinozytenproliferation führen, was zum Verschluss der Haarfollikel (Hautporen) führen kann. Die Hautporen werden durch abgestorbene Hautzellen verstopft und schaffen eine perfekte Umgebung für das Wachstum von Cutibectarium acnes (das in der Tat ein physiologisches Bakterium der Haut ist, was bedeutet, dass wir es zusammen mit Bifidobacterium und Lactobacillus auf der gesunden Hautoberfläche finden können). Cutibakterien enthalten unter anderem ein Enzym, das zu einer Entzündung der Haut führt. Dieses Enzym ist eine Lipase. Es kann hydrolysieren oder besser zu sagen ”verdauen” Lipide, nämlich Talgdrüsentriglyceride, was zu schweren Entzündungen der Haut führen kann.

Akne vulgaris auf der Stirn. Sichtbare Entzündung der Haarfollikel in der Haut durch Wachstum von Cutobacterium acnes.

Akne ist eine Zivilisationskrankheit. Moderne Lebensweise, Ernährung und Stress führen zu hormonellen Störungen und zu Akne. Interessanterweise leiden Stämme, die im Amazonas-Regenwald leben, überhaupt nicht an Akne. Stresslosigkeit, gesunde Lebensweise, Entfernung von der westlichen (unsere) Kultur haben viele gesundheitliche Vorteile. Ich möchte noch einmal darauf hinweisen, dass der Grund für Akne hauptsächlich der westliche Lebensstil ist, der den Verzehr von Zucker, gesättigten Fetten, Fast Food und verarbeiteten Lebensmitteln voller Konservierungsstoffe und verschiedener ungesunder chemischer Verbindungen beinhaltet.

Bisher wurden verschiedene Modelle zur Behandlung von Akne gezeigt und untersucht. Dabei handelte es sich meist um eine Therapie mit Tetracyclin und Erythromycin – Antibiotika, die als Lipasehemmer wirken. Es ist jedoch bekannt, dass immer mehr Bakterien gegen gängige Antibiotika resistent werden. Darüber hinaus sind Antibiotika extrem starke chemische Verbindungen, die unseren Organismus schaden. Es wurde gezeigt, dass unsere Darmmikrobiota nach einer Antibiotika-Behandlung Jahre braucht, um sich zu erholen! Daher lohnt es sich, sich auf alternative Therapien zu konzentrieren, die helfen können diese Krankheit zu bekämpfen. Obwohl Akne eine bakterielle Hauterkrankung ist, liegt der Grund für ihr Auftreten woanders. Sein Ursprung liegt in endokrinen Störungen, Problemen mit der Proliferation von Keratinozyten und Talgdrüsenstörungen.

Es wurde gezeigt, dass Menschen, die an Akne leiden, große Probleme mit dem Darmmikrobiom haben. Sie haben weniger gute Bakterien, die an der Immunantwort beteiligt sind- zB. eine verringerte Menge von Clostridium und Ruminococcaceae, Firmicutes und eine erhöhte Menge von Bacteroides – opportunistische Pathogene, die für entzündliche Erkrankungen charakteristisch sind. Daher sind Ergänzungen mit Probiotika und die richtige Ernährung, die zur Wiederherstellung der Darmmikrobiota beitragen können, sehr gute Kandidaten, um diese Krankheit zu bekämpfen. Es ist wichtig, mit Endokrinologen und Dermatologen zusammenzuarbeiten und auf unsere Hormone zu achten. Es ist wichtig, alltäglichen Stress zu bekämpfen, da einer der Gründe für Akne die Ansammlung von Stresshormonen ist.

Eine sehr interessante Möglichkeit, die bei der Aknetherapie helfen kann, ist die Therapie mit Bakteriophagen. Ich glaube, viele von Ihnen haben von diesen kleinen, infizierenden Bakterien Viren gehört. Ihre Funktion in der natürlichen Umgebung besteht darin, das Wachstum von Bakterienpopulationen zu kontrollieren. Ähnlich wie menschliche Viren benötigen Bakteriophagen zum Überleben einen lebenden bakteriellen Wirt. Nach der Infektion nutzen sie Bakterienzellen als Fabrik zur Entwicklung, was am Ende zur Zerstörung der Wirtszelle, zur Freisetzung von Viren in die Umwelt und zur Infektion der neuen Zellen führt. Die Idee der Verwendung von Bakteriophagen ist, dass sie stammspezifisch sind, was bedeutet, dass sie keine anderen Bakterienarten infizieren. Dies macht die Therapie nur auf einen Bakterientyp gerichtet und schadet dem Rest der Bakterienpopulation nicht, was für den menschlichen Organismus von Vorteil ist (die Hautmikrobiota ist eine wichtige Barriere, die die Infektionen mit Krankheitserregern verhindert).


Zukunft der Infektionsmedizin? Bakteriophagen wachsen in der Platte. Sichtbar sind kleine Läsionen (Plaques), bei denen wir aufgrund des Auftretens von Viren kein Bakterienwachstum beobachten.

Was kann bei der Bekämpfung von Akne hilfreich sein (zusätzlich zur medikamentösen Therapie durch den Dermatologen)?
– Unverarbeitete Nahrungsmittel mit sehr niedrigem glykämischen Index (diesen Index zeigt Anstieg der Glukose im Blut nach Nahrungsaufnahme)
– Geringerer Verzehr von gesättigten Fetten und Verzehr von Lebensmitteln, die reich an ungesättigten Fetten (GLA, DHA, EPA) sind. Sie können positiv Keratinozyten und Talgdrüsenzellen beeinflussen. Sie sind auch für das Darmmikrobiom (insbesondere für Lactobacillus-Bakterien) sehr wichtig. Omega-6-Fettsäuren sind bekanntermaßen sehr wichtig für die korrekte Struktur und Funktion der Epidermis
– Verzehr von Gemüse und Obst (sie enthalten Ballaststoffe). Wenig Ballaststoffe können unser Darmmikrobiom negativ beeinflussen und zu Hautproblemen führen
– Ernährung reich an Vitaminen, Zink, Magnesium und Kupfer. Dies sind sehr wichtige Mikroelemente. Sie beeinflussen unser Hormonsystem, das Darmmikrobiom und viele Enzyme und biochemische Stoffwechselwege in unserem Organismus
– Auf den circadianen Rhythmus achten (Tag- und Nachtrhythmus). Hier ist es wichtig, dass wir genug Schlaf haben (8 Stunden) und jede Nacht zur gleichen Zeit ins Bett gehen
– Richtige Hautpflege!

Die richtige Hautpflegeroutine bei Akne-Krankheit

Es ist sehr wichtig, die Aknehaut richtig zu pflegen. Zuerst sollten wir uns auf die Befeuchtung der Haut konzentrieren. Verwenden Sie zur Reinigung milde Emulsionen mit Panthenol, Hyaluronsäure, Allantoin und Betain. Verwenden Sie keine Seife und Produkte mit viel Alkohol. Sie können zu einer Übertrocknung der Haut führen, was zu einer Stimulation der Talgdrüsen und einer Überproduktion von Talg führen kann. Eine sehr gute Wahl werden Kosmetika mit Salicylsäure sein. Salicylsäure ist eine Beta-Hydroxysäure mit antimikrobiellen Eigenschaften. In geringen Konzentrationen kann es bei der Bekämpfung von Cutibacterium helfen. Menschen, die an Akne leiden, können chemische Peelings anwenden. Hier sind Säuren mit antibakteriellen Eigenschaften sehr nützlich: Salicylsäure, Brenztraubensäure und Säuren mit entzündungshemmenden Eigenschaften: Azelainsäure und Lactobionsäure. In Cremes und Seren können wir Antioxidantien (Vitamin A, C, E), feuchtigkeitsspendende Faktoren (NMF, Ceramide, Urea, Milchsäure, Hyaluronsäure, Aloe Vera-Extrakt) und entzündungshemmende Verbindungen (Vitamin B3, Lactobionsäure, Azelainsäure) verwenden. Es wurde gezeigt, dass die Produkte mit Phosphatidylcholin und Liposomen sehr gute Ergebnisse erzielen können. Wichtig ist, das Gesicht richtig zu reinigen, auf Feuchtigkeit der Haut zu achten und Entzündungen zu verringern. Die Verwendung von gutem Toner ist ein Muss. Es ist äußerst wichtig, das Gesicht nach dem Waschen mit Papiertüchern abzutrocknen. Bei Akne haben wir es mit einer bakteriellen Infektion zu tun, daher sollten wir die Verwendung von schmutzigen Handtüchern vermeiden. Und das Wichtigste – Finger weg vom Gesicht 🙂 Berühren Sie es nicht und drücken Sie keine Pickel aus. Dies kann Ihre Akne nur verschlimmern und zu Entstehung der Narben führen.

Arkadiusz

anti-aging, Uncategorized

Kobido massage

Today I would like to write about two massage techniques, which could help you to slow down occurrence of signs of aging- a Kobido massage and Zoga Face Integration. Firstly I would like to shortly write what actually happens when we age? Most of the people think, that aging is related to loss of collagen and elastin in the skin. Although, it is true, one has to understand, that there are much more reasons why our skin looks less elastic when we are older. The fact is, that the main reason for occurrence of wrinkles is loss of structural proteins in the skin. In fact, after 25 year of life we loose 1% of collagen each year. UV light, air pollution and bad life style lead to over accumulation of reactive forms of oxygen (so called free radicals), which are responsible for destruction of skin cell and proteins involved in keeping skin in a good shape. UV light stimulates metalloproteinases– enzymes involved in collagen and elastin degradation. Another reason for appearance of wrinkles is slowing down of cellular metabolism- cells divide slower and produce less of hyaluronic acid and structural proteins. Many people think as well, that gravity is a main reason for occurrence of wrinkles. However, there are many other, much more important reasons why our face age. A very important factor to mention is nourishing of the skin. All skin blood vessels are placed in dermis and subcutis. All of the nutrients have to be ”delivered” to upper parts of the skin (epidermis), as they lack any of the capillaries. Nourishing of the skin can be easily disturbed by facial muscles. Most of the time tension of our muscles is indeed involved in occurrence of wrinkles.

People which are familiar with anatomy of human body can easily notice, that the wrinkles appear perpendicularly to the direction of the muscles. Amazing example could be wrinkles of the upper and bottom lip. Muscle which we can find in this area (musculus orbicularis oris) is situated around the mouth (in line with our lips). How do the wrinkles there look like? Of course they are always occurring as a short lines having their beginning under the nose and reaching upper part of the lip. Tensions of the muscles lead to problems with blood and lymph fluctuation and this can be a severe problem leading to premature aging. Musculus orbicularis oculi (it closes the eyelids)- another muscle involved in occurrence of mimic wrinkles shortens with the age. Its tension gets disturbed, what stimulates appearance of wrinkles in eye area as well. As the last example I would like to write about 2 muscles: musculus risorius, which retracts the angle of the mouth during smiling and involved in smiling musculus zygmaticus. These two muscles due to shortening with a time are strongly involved in occurrence of facial wrinkles. When we get older changes our facial proportion, what has strong impact on appearance of wrinkles on our face as well.

A very good way to slow down aging is massage. It has relaxing properties (it can be combined with aromatherapy). During massage our body produce less stress hormone (cortysol), what has very positive influence on our skin. It improves blood circulation and nourishing of the skin. Skin gets more oxygen, lymph is easier removed what means that all metabolic waste will be easier removed from the tissues. Massage is great as a preparation for different cosmetic treatments as well.

Although we can perform different types of massage on the face, today I would like to focus only on two of them with very strong anti-aging properties- Zoga Face Integration and Kobido massage. First one comes from Poland and is amazing tool to prepare face for Kobido. It is a deep massage of the face muscles and fasciae, which result in deep muscle relaxation. What are fasciae? These are a sheets of connective tissue, which we can find under the skin and around all muscles, muscle fibres and internal organs. Their function is protection and stabilisation of these structures. With this massage type we can reduce occurrence of wrinkles, improve face oval and face symmetry.

Kobido is a very trendy Japanese massage. It is often called ”lifting without scalpel” and combined with right anti-aging cosmetics, it can give us amazing results. Kobido comes from XV-th century, when two best massage masters in japan were asked to compete for japanese emperor to develop the best massage technique. Since nobody could really decide which master was better, they simply started to cooperate and developed Kobido- today’s most popular anti-aging massage in Japan. In Kobiodo we start with very slow, gentle and relaxing moves and slowly move to very fast and strong grips with a very strong lifting effect. Massage is very intense and complex. It involves many complex manual techniques. It acts deep in the skin and strongly influences muscles. Although it is a very strong massage, it doesn’t cause pain. It is a combination of different massage techniques like acupressure and lymph drainage. First part of Kobido is relaxation. After relaxation part, Kobido masseur moves to the neck, what leads to better blood circulation in face area, skin is better nourished and prepared to next steps of massage. Then he performs lymph drainage. After lymph drainage, which is meant to remove access of lymph in the tissues we can start with typical Kobido lifting moves (pinching, kneading and pulling of the skin) and finishes with acupressure.

These are results after one Kobido massage. You can see less fine lines and decreased depth of most wrinkles.

What can we achieve with Kobido?

– elimination of muscle tension and at the same time removal of mimic wrinkles
– better tension of the skin (lifting effect)
– stimulation of cellular metabolism
– faster regeneration of the skin
– deep face muscle massage and younger appearance of the face skin
– stress elimination
– face muscle relaxation can even lead to elimination of bruxism (teeth grinding) due to relaxation of masseter muscle (Musculus masseter).

Contaraindications:

– too short period of time after needle mesotherapy (one has to wait at least 1 week after the treatment)
– too short period of time after Botox treatment (2 weeks break before doing Kobido)
– after some other aesthetic medicine treatments one has to wait up to 6 months before doing Kobido
– viral and bacterial infections
– skin inflammation
– high blood pressure
– rosacea and very sensitive skin types
– injuries
– cancer

A.

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Larens

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Today I would like to write about my newest discovery- dermaceuticals from polish – swiss company Larens WellU. Nowadays, more and more people are interested in natural cosmetics. However, we have to say, that mostly such cosmetics do not really give good results. Larens found a way to produce amazing products, which contain up to 100% natural substances and achieve great results. They put together science and natural products- a combination which I like the most. In their offer you will find cosmetics without pigments, bad preservatives, silicones, parabenes and fragrances. They put an effort into being sure, that all of the ingredients in their products are of the best quality. Among different substances you can find there encapsulated in liposomes collagen and elastin peptides, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and biomimetic and signal peptides. The company wins different prizes for innovative products every year!

Comming back to liposome encapsulated collagen and elastin peptides. What actually these liposomes are? Liposomes are one of many lipid- based nanosystems, which are used in cosmetics to transport active substances into deep layers of the skin. It is very important to know, that our skin’s function is to protect us from exogenous factors like allergens, chemicals and microorganisms. Skin’s structure is made in a way, so that nothing from outside can easily enter our body. Upper layers of the skin contain very little of water, what makes them unpermeable for water based cosmetics. Most of the substances in cosmetic products is able to enter upper parts of the skin, however it is almost impossible for them to penetrate to middle part of the skin (dermis), where actually most of the skin problems begin. Liposomes due their structure, which resembles structure of the skin, are able to enter very deep and release active substances in a place where they are needed. If you want to get more informations about liposomes, you can read one of my blog entries about the topic.

https://scienceandcosmetics.blog/2021/09/04/liposomes-and-transport-of-active-substances-into-deep-layers-of-the-skin/

Liposom structure and liposome encapsulated active substances.


Coming back to Larens. Company offers skin cosmaceuticals for face and the body. They produce cosmetics suited to all skin types. Even people suffering from acne, allergies and atopic dermatitis can use their products. The most important thing about the company are substances which they use in their formulations. I went through all of the ingredients and I have to say, that I am positively surprised. I could find among them substances which can fight almost all skin problems. Growth factors (FGF, EGF, VEGF, IGF-1), lactobionic acid and gluconolactone (anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties), collagen and elastin peptides, palmitoyl oligopeptide, hyaluronic acid, ferulic acid (strong antioxidant), colloid silver (antimicrobial), hydromanil (moisturizing), phytodermina lifting complex (moisturizing), Omega-6 fatty acid complex and ectoin (anti-inflammatory and moisturizing) are the most fancy ingredients. Apart of them we can find there many typical ingredients, like vitamin E, squalen, rice oil, allantoine (moisturizing), panthenol, urea, lactic acid, vitamin C, biotin, hamamelis, amino acids, jojoba oil, gingko biloba, centella asiatica, laminaria saccharina (moisturizing), sunflower oil, avocado oil, rutin and many many more  🙂

I have lately tried few products from Larens and I have to say, that these are the best cosmetics I have used so far! I was able to see good results already after few days of using them. The have very neutral smell, are not fatty and leave skin soft and hydrated. I was really happy about packages and the containers of the products. They look very luxurious and are extremely easy to dose.

Face before and after massage with Larens products (Repair+ Milk, Biorepair toner, Lipocoll, Biorenew tissue face mask, GLA serum). Skin appears brighter and you can see decreased wrinkles appearance.

Here I would like to describe few of them:

REPAIR+ MILK
You all know how important is daily face cleaning. Larens came up with a great product to remove your makeup and wash your face. It removes all of the impurities and even strong make-up in a very gently and efficient manner. One of the main ingredients is rice oil, which apart from very good cleaning properties, nourishes your skin with unsaturated fatty acids and vitamins. Moreover, it contains liposomal collagen complex, hyaluronic acid, lactobionic acid, vitamin E and coconut water. It hydrates and nuirishes your skin while cleansing. Lactobionic acid has very strong anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties. It is perfect ingredient for dry and prone to couperose skin. It acts similarly to all of the AHA acids staying very gentle to your skin. Some of you could be unhappy due to the fact, that the milk contains paraffin. Although I am not fan of this ingredient I have to say, that rest of the INCI is very good! Let’s be honest – paraffin do not enter the skin and for me is actually neutral ingredient. I can surely recommend this product for daily use for every skin type!

BIOREPAIR+ TONER
Thanks to lactobionic acid, toner brightens and smooths the skin. It is enriched in panthenol and allantoin, which have very good moisturizing properties. We can find there Centella asiatica extract with anti-aging properties. This extract contains asiatic acid, which is a perfect weapon against dry skin and wrinkles. My other favourite ingredients of the toner are biomimetic peptides (collagen, elastin peptides and palmitoyl oligopeptide). Due to their small size they can enter deep layers of the skin, where the are able to stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin. Biorepair+ toner has strong anti-inflammatory properties and is perfectly suited for very sensitive skin types.

Biopeptide toner from Larens.

BIOPEPTIDE SERUM SPRAY
This is very innovative serum in a form of spray. You can use it after sunbathing, you can use it on your face many times during the day, you can use it as a serum and you can use it even for your hair! It smells very neutral and leaves your skin smooth and shiny! I just love it. It contains biopeptide complex with collagen and elastin peptides, hydromanil, biotine, sodium hyaluronate, urea, vitamin E and colloidal silver. It is perfectly suited for every skin type.

LIPOCOLL SERUM
I am in love in this product as well! It contains 20% liposomal complex of proteins, peptides and amino acids (collagen, elastin, palmitoyl oligopeptide, histones and lumicans). Histones are proteins involved in DNA stabilisation. Lumicans are important for collagen biosynthesis proteins and are extracellular matrix structural proteins. This serum has strong anti-aging properties. Due to combination of signal peptides in liposomes, it can also fight other problems of the skin. You can use if you suffer from acne and hyperpigmentation as well.

Lipocoll 20% collagen serum and Biopeptide Serum Spray.

GLA SERUM
GLA serum is actually no serum at all. It is a cream, which got its name due to having high concentration of active substances. It is perfect choice for all people having very dry, sensitive skin. Due to gamma linolenic acid complex (Omega-6) it rebuilds hydrolipid layer and nuirishes the skin. Loss of Omega-6 can lead to loss of elasticity, drying out of the skin, acne and hypersensitivity. Application of products containing Omega acids can restore protective barrier of the skin and improve resistance to adverse external factors. We can find there liposomal collagen and hyaluronic acid complex as well. Panthenol, Gingko biloba extracts and vitamin E can help fighting couperose and are perfectly suited for dry and sensitive skin types. Vitamin E is strong antioxidant, which protects cell membranes in the skin by preventing fatty acid and lipid oxidation. Gingko biloba is known to strengthen blood vessels and has strong anti-aging properties. This cream is reach in nourishing oils as well. We can fing them full of unsaturated Omega acids and vitamins avocado seed oil, wheat seed oil and peach seed oil.

LIFTING FACE CREAM
It is a very good cream with strong anti-aging properties! It contains liposomal collagen and peptide complex, liposomal hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, rutin and Phytodermina lifting complex. Phytodermina complex is a plant based compound made of cyclic oligosaccharides. It has strong moisturizing properties and provides immediate lifting effect. Skin becomes smooth and bright already after first usage! I love to use this cream for face massage. It contains two amazing, natural and modern preservatives, which are assumed to be skin friendly, they have moisturizing properties and do not cause allergy at all! It is luxurious product and what is more important it does its job really well!

BIORENEW TISSUE FACE MASK
Pretty expensive, but still the best mask I have ever used  🙂 It assures regeneration, moisture, protection and stimulation of the skin. As a main product we can find there bioplacenta complex. Plant placenta is a source of highly concentrated growth factors. Among others we can find there EGF (epithelial growth factor), FGF (fibroblast growth factor), VEGF (vascular epithelial growth factor). These proteins stimulate angiogenesis (creation of new capillaries) and production of skin structural proteins. It is a perfect weapon against many skin problems- from acne, through dry skin, to very mature skin with wrinkles. Apart from plant placenta, we can find there many biomimetic and signaling peptides: oligopeptides 1 and 2, polypeptides 1, 9 and 11 and Arginine/lysine oligopeptide. Moreover, we can find there phytodermina saccharide complex of very strong moisturizing properties. Interesting ingredient is soybean and Bacillus ferment extract. It stimulates skin bacteria to growth and has anti-inflammatory and protective function. Last but not least, we can find there allantoine, squalen, hyaluronic acid and collagen and elastin peptide complex. So much goods in one mask! I love it as well 🙂

BIO Renew tissue mask with growth factors and biopeptide complex.

DERMO SERIE
In this serie we can find few cosmetics containing ectoine. Ectoine is an ingredient which can be very helpful with fighting allergy and inflammation. It has strong moisturizing and protective properties. Ectoine has been obtained from extremophile microorganisms- bacteria living in very harsh environments (geysers). First product with ectoine is Dermowash. It contains complex of natural fish collagen peptides, aloe vera and argan oil. In this series we can find serum and cream as well. Apart from ectoin, thy contain biopeptide complex, collagen and elastin, allantoine, vitamine E and C, hyaluronic acid, hydromanil, colloid silver, jojoba oil and gluconolactone. Thanks all of these ingredients, dermowash serie is perfectly suited for very sensitive, prone to couperose and acne skin type. It helps to alleviate allergy symptoms and is perfectly suited for dermatitis patients.


A.

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Vitamin D – a sunny vitamin for the skin

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Vitamin D3 (cholecalciferol or calciferol) is known as ‘’vitamin from the sun’’. For sure everybody have already heard that it is important for our bones. Simply saying, it regulates calcium uptake in the intestine and proper mineralization of the bones. But is it everything? What is the role of vitamin D3 for our skin? Today I would like to give you a short answer to these questions.

Let’s start with a little bit of boring biochemistry 😉 Although vitamin D can be taken up from food (so called exogenous way), a much more efficient way of its distribution in our organism is its synthesis by skin cells (so called endogenous way). It is synthetized in keratinocytes, which we can find in stratum basale of epidermis. Synthesis of vitamin D requires UV light of approx. 290-315 nm wavelength, which responds to UV-B radiation. Just to remind you, we have four different types of radiation, which can penetrate through our skin. UV-A with 320-400 nm wavelength, UV-B with 280-320 nm wavelength, UV-C with 100-280 nm wavelength and infrared radiation with more then 800 nm wavelength. Vitamin D is produced in keratinocytes from cholesterol. Due to exposure to UV light, cholesterol is converted to pre vitamin D3 (7-dehydrocholesterol) and transported into the liver, where it has to be double-hydroxylated to its active form. After first hydroxylation (addition of -OH group), it is converted into major circulating form in our organism – 25(OH)D3 (cholecalciferol or 25-hydroxy vitamin D3). 25(OH)D3 is accepted biomarker of vitamin D in our organism. In this form, vitamin D is transported to the kidneys, where it is hydroxylated into active form- 1,25(OH)2D3 (1,25-dihydroxy cholecalciferol). Last conversion is strictly regulated by calcium and phosphorus levels in the blood.

Production of vitamin D is dependent on skin pigmentation, age, intensity of the UV radiation (season of the year and latitude) and even our lifestyle. It is important to know that too long exposure to sun light doesn’t lead to production of toxic concentrations of vitamin D3, as a big part of provitamin D3 and cholecalciferol in our organism is converted to non-active metabolites like lumisterol (vitamin D1). Unfortunatelly, in today’s world people suffer from strong vitamin D deficiency. Why? In modern life style we avoid sun light, we go to work with underground or with a car, we park that car in underground parking areas and very ofter we stay the whole day long at our homes. Even if we go out, we put a lot of the sunscreen on our skin, what additionally prevents our organisms from UV radiation, thus blocks biosynthesis of vitamin D. To produce right amount of vitamin D, our body requires exposition of summer sun of 20% of our skin for 30 minutes a day! In modern world we do not achieve even low portion of vitamin D production in the summer period. Consequently, you can imagine, that during colder periods of the year we do not produce that vitamin at all! One can ask, what with vitamin D, which we can find in the food? First of all, that low amount of vitamin D in the food can cover only 10% of totall vitamin D requirement. Secondly, believe me that our modern diet (which actually is full of junk food) do not provide even half of this! Vitamin D3 we can find in fat fishes and milk products. However, even rich and varied diet is not enough to provide it in a adequate amount. So what to do? The best way to compensate its deficit in our bodies is to supplement it. On the market we can find many different products, which we could introduce into our diet. Depending on the exposition on the sun light, supplementation should very from 500 IU up to 2000 IU per day during summer and winter respectively.

Yes, novadays we should supplement vitamin D almost every day! In the summer, long exposition to the sun can lead to erythema, however it is almost impossible to reach toxic levels of vitamin D3. Due to autoregulation of its biosynthesis and different photochemical reactions, it will be accumulated and stored in a form of non-active metabolites. Due to some scientist the only way to achieve toxic concentration of vitamin D in the body is wrong supplementation, which can appear after long term application of more than 10000 IU per day, or single administration of 50000 IU.

Why vitamin D is so important for the skin?

– It is known, that vitamin D3 has a strong impact on immune system. Vitamin D in the skin can lead to decrease of inflammatory cytokines (like interleukin 1, 6, 8,17 and 21) and increase of anti-inflammatory cytokines like interleukin 10. Due to its immunomodulating properties, its deficiency can have a role in occurrence of autoimmune diseases of the skin (psoriasis and lupus– known as well as systemic lupus erythematosus). Psoriasis is a long-lasting disease with raised areas of abnormal skin. A lupus is autoimmune disease as well and leads to attacking by immune system of the body tissues and can appear as a butterfly-shaped erythema on the face. Due to its immunomodulating properties, vitamin D can have influence on reduction of appearance of allergic reactions. As I already wrote, it reduces inflammation and has an impact on cell damage by oxidative stress, what make it important vitamin for all people suffering from neurodermatitis (atopic dermatitis) as well.

– It protects our skin from negative influence of UV radiation, what prevents premature aging and photoaging of the skin.

– It is important for right function of the skin biochemical processes.

– Vitamin D3 regulates keratinocytes differentiation and proliferation and it has been shown that it can have a very positive influence on acne. Due to the latest publications, supplementation with vitamin D in 2000 IU dosis per day and its topical application led to strong improvement of skin condition in patients, who suffered from acne. It has been shown as well, that there is a very strong correlation between severity of acne and vitamin D deficiency.

I hope I could convince you that vitamin D3 is not only a vitamin for strong bones. It is extremely important for skin physiology as well and in today’s modern world its supplementation suppose to be implimented in diet of all of us- at least in winter period.

A.

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Preservatives in cosmetics

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Preservatives, a chemicals that we are all afraid of. Are they as harmful as many of us think and do we really need them in cosmetics? Today I would like to write about the role of different preservatives in skin care formulations and about their influence on the skin and the skin microbiome. About skin microbiome you could read already on my blog earlier.

As you all could imagine, cosmetics containing large amounts of water and organic ingredients are extremely susceptible to action of microbes. Imagine all of the oils, proteins and sugars in your moist cosmetics. Yes, this is a perfect environment for growth of different bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa) and fungi (Candida albicans). Unprotected cosmetics have a fairly short period of safe use, which can vary from few days up to a few weeks. Microorganisms produce different metabolites, which can affect color, smell and composition of cosmetics. Many of these metabolites are very harmful for us. Microbes in cosmetics lead to change of their physical properties and can be a real danger for our skin, leading to inflammation, infection and allergies. How do the cosmetic companies fight that problem out? Here come the preservatives into the game. After applying an appropriate preservative system, each cosmetic product can be used without any problems for up to 6 months after opening.


What actually are these preservatives – these are all substances which are able to stop or strongly reduce a bacterial and fungal growth in different products. They are constantly used to prevent microbial growth in our foods. Do not confuse them with antibiotics. Antibiotics as a prescription drugs can’t be used as a preservatives. Bacteria and fungi are pretty smart in developing resistance to antibiotics, what in the future could lead to development of antibiotic resistance to all of antibiotics that we know. That would be a disaster for a man kind. Preservatives have a toxic effect on all (or most of microorganisms). In cosmetics we can use them in a very low concentrations- enough to stop bacterial and fungal growth and not to harm our organisms.

Are they really safe for us? Actually yes, each cosmetic before it is approved for sale has to undergo many tests to evaluate its safety, so as not to endanger the health of the person that will use it. Each of formulations has to undergo many dermatological and microbiological tests, cosmetic durability and efficacy tests as well. However, despite all of these investigations, different skin reactions (allergies and skin irritations cannot be excluded). Due to the widespread use of cosmetics and way more immunity problems among our population than ever, allergic reactions and cosmetic-associated irritations are more and more often observed. The composition of cosmetic products is very rich, what makes it very difficult to determine which of the components is an allergenic factor. Although we cannot avoid use of preservatives in cosmetic formulation, there are some of them which are safe and really worth to write about. They do not only preserve products from harmful microorganisms, sometimes they have even a very positive influence on the skin and skin microbiome.

Which preservatives should you avoid in your cosmetic products and which of them you can for sure apply on your skin? Lets start with the most popular ones: phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

Phenoxyethanol
Phenoxyethanol  (2-phenoxyethanol) is a preservative that is commonly found in skin care cosmetics. Some time ago there was a lot of talk about it. Is it good? Is it bad? Does it harm the skin? Does it lead to occurrence of allergic reactions? In cosmetics, it is present mainly in creams, lotions and other preparations for moisturizing the skin of the body, including the face. Phenoxyethanol is allowed to be used in cosmetics in a limited concentration (up to 1%). It is effective against a variety of gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria as well as yeasts and has only a weak inhibitory effect on the skin flora. It has a very nice smell and is a great solvent for many chemicals. Although it is a very safe preservative, people with very sensitive skin type should avoid it in their daily skin care routine. It is allergenic substance capable of causing numerous unpleasant irritations and allergic skin lesions. For this reason, cosmetics with phenoxyethanol should not be used by people with very sensitive skin and people suffering from skin diseases (psoriasis and atopic dermatitis).

Ethylhexylglycerin
Ethylhexylglycerin is a glycerin (a carbohydrate belonging to polyols – sugar alcohol) derivative. Ethylhexylglycerin is a liquid substance and has no color under normal conditions (room temperature, normal pressure). It dissolves well in water and oil solutions. It has a very strong preservative properties and acts against yeast and bacteria. It is a humectant as well, what means that it can bind water and shows moisturizing properties. It can enhance action of other preservatives, therefor very often we can find it in cosmetic formulations together with phenoxyethanol. Ethylhexylglycerin reduces the unpleasant smell on the skin as well. It does not disrupt the natural lipid layer of the skin, what makes it one of the safest cosmetic preservatives. It does not show any allergenic or irritating effect. It can be safely used by women during pregnancy and breastfeeding. In some sources we can find information that ethylhexylglycerin is a compound that can irritate the eye area in very high concentrations, what actually doesn’t apply to cosmetic products, as it is used there in a very low amount.

For all of the people, that are afraid of (or have allergy to) phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin I would like to give few another safe preservatives which you could pay attention to. These could be sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, pentylene glycol and bacterial ferments.

Sodium benzoate
Sodium Benzoate is a traditional preservative that is used extensively in the cosmetics, food and pharmaceutical industries. It protects effectively against the growth of microorganisms like fungi and bacteria. It belongs to very safe preservatives and it is approved for use in ecological cosmetics. Sodium benzoate is the sodium salt of benzoic acid, which is known to have very strong antimicrobial properties as well. The recommended concentration in the cosmetic products is 0.2% to 0.4%. Some people can claim that due to possible conversion to benzoate it should be classified as harmful, however such reaction can take place only in combination with ascorbic acid in the presence of different physical and chemical factors such as metal ions and UV radiation (therefore sometimes you can find information, that it should be avoided in formulations containing vitamin C). Although there is such a possibility,  amount of created benzoate would be so low, that use of sodium benzoate in cosmetics is completely safe.

Potassium sorbate
Similarly to sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate is a traditional preservative used in the cosmetics and food industries as well. It effectively reduces the growth of yeast and bacteria, with the exception of beneficial lactic acid bacteria (what makes it skin microbiome friendly). Potassium Sorbate is the potassium salt of sorbic acid that occurs naturally in the fruits of rowan (Sorbus aucuparia). Similarly to sodium benzoate, the recommended concentration in the cosmetic product is 0.2% to 0.4%.

Pentylene glycol
Glycols belong to the group of alcohols, an extremely wide and diverse group of organic compounds. Glycols, similarly to popular alcohols, like ethanol and methanol also have an -OH (hydroxyl group) molecule attached to the hydrocarbon chain, more precisely they belong to diols (they have two hydroxyl groups bound to hydrocarbon chain). Ethylhyxylglycerin, which is a derivative of glycerol is a diol as well (it hast wo -OH groups as well). Pentylene glycol can be easily used as an alternative preservative, because the concentration at which it achieves its antimicrobial properties is around 5%. Its chemical structure lets it to dissolve well in water. It has ability to penetrate to stratum corneum and to enhance transport of active substances into the skin.  Apart from that it has very strong moisturizing properties as well. It is great preservative that softens and maintains the skin in a good condition. The compound is not genotoxic and does not cause skin irritation or allergy. As a Humectant it additionally prevents the cosmetic preparation from drying out and crystallization.

Lactobacillus ferment:
Lactobacillus is a type of bacteria that naturally lives on the surface of our skin and is used to ferment food such as yoghurt, kefir and sauerkraut. Lactobacillus ferment in cosmetology, can be used as an antimicrobial agent, providing a broad spectrum of antibacterial activity. It is a safe alternative to other controversial preservatives. It is very effective against pathogenic bacteria  and yeast (Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans). Many researchers showed so far, that apart of its antimicrobial properties, it also has a moisturizing effect and can stimulate growth of friendly skin bacteria (acts as an prebiotic). Addition of  2% Lactobacillus ferment into the cosmetic formulation led to an improvement in skin hydration by about 15 – 25% after four weeks.


Leuconostoc / radish root ferment filtrate
Leuconostoc / radish root ferment filtrate is a natural preservative of plant origin based on antibacterial peptides that are produced in the fermentation of radish (Raphanus sativus) by human-friendly lactic acid bacteria of the genus Leuconostoc kimchii. It is skin-friendly and became great alternative to traditional, synthetic preservatives  (phenoxyethanol). Similarly to Lactobacillus ferment, it  protects the cosmetic preparations against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Bulkholderia cepacia. It hydrates the skin and stimulates growth of skin microbiome. When used in a concentration of only 1%, it increases the level of skin hydration by more than 10%.


Impact of preservatives on skin microbiome
On our skin there is a community of billions of different bacteria per square centimeter! This community is called skin microbiome. Similarly to gut microbiome, on the skin we can find diverse strains of lactic acid bacteria and yeast. Most common are Propionibacterium, Corynebacterium, Lactobacillus, Staphylococci and Bifidobacterium. They reside on our skin from our birth and have very important protective function for our organism. Does use of preservatives impact skin microbiome?


As many scientific investigations show, use of preservatives in cosmetic formulations do not really necessarily have to influence skin microbiota. A very interesting paper showed that different preservation systems used in cosmetics (either used for washing or in creams) do not influence skin microbiome. The investigation have been carried out through 5 weeks and didn’t show much of change in diversity of skin bacteria. This was actually in line with similar studies, which focused on using soap for washing the hands. Although soap led to slight alternations in skin microbiome, these were only short-term changes and bacteria could easily recover (however, remember that soap alternates hydrolipid barrier of the skin). However all of the research have been conducted only for a low period of time, therefor it is important to get some more information about influence of such cosmetic use for longer time. Another interesting study examined influence on the skin of preservative formulation with and without high molecular weight inulin- a very popular prebiotic. What was the outcome of this research? The use of preservative formulation without prebiotic led to drastic decrease of microorganism population after 2 hours of cosmetic application. 50% of bacteria recovered after 4 hours, however one has to think that that formulation was a pretty hardcore for skin microbiome – it contained phanoxyethanol, diazolinidyl urea, methyl and propyl parabens and propylene glycol. Application of cosmetics with inulin had an outstanding result on skin bacteria. Despite very high concentration of preservative, these cosmetics led to total recovery of skin microbiome after 4 hours. Moreover, it has been shown, that they enhanced skin hydration by 22% in comparison to control formulation, which contained 0.1% hyaluronic acid as hydrating agent.

As you can see, preservatives are really not that bad in cosmetic formulations! From my side, I would advise you to look for cosmetics with prebiotics (inulin, bacterial ferments, yeast ferments, glucan) rather than give up on cosmetics because there is a common preservative in its formulation. If you are really afraid of preservatives, choose products with ethylhexylglycerin, penthylene glycol or bacterial ferments 🙂


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